By Julian Putley

If you ask any child in the United States or Europe where they would like to spend a vacation of a lifetime, Disney World would likely be the overwhelming response. This entertainment giant that started with cartoon movies back in the 1920s has progressed to huge theme parks and exciting adventure shows designed to assuage the thirst of thrill seekers and stimulate the imagination of all the young and young at heart. The British Virgin Islands rivals Disney World in that it has provided the stage for many varied productions, and with a fertile imagination, you can bring them all to life.

The first that springs to mind is the pirate island of Norman with buried treasure, caves, the Robert Louis Stevenson connection and nearby Dead Chest Cay, which evokes even more derring-do. Next comes a cataclysmic ordeal including a terrifying hurricane and a luxury sailing/steam ship wrecked on a remote island. A somewhat more benign story is the Robinson Crusoe–type lifestyle that became the reality of a bohemian American couple that settled on a deserted cay. Add to all this the amazing natural wonder of The Baths, another called the Bubbly Pool, a watersports arena called North Sound, a coral island and one-time home to ship wreckers called Anegada, and a world-famous troubadour’s enclave — Foxy’s Tamarind Bar in Jost Van Dyke.

Norman Island, the Pirates and the Treasure Caves
Pirates and their lore are fascinating topics for the young and old alike, but the most popular is that of the pirates of Norman Island and their treasure. In 1750, a Spanish treasure fleet with a richly laden galleon ran aground off the coast of North Carolina. In the midst of a tropical storm, a dozen pirates stole those chests of silver and gold and sailed 1,000 miles south to the tropics to Norman Island’s Bight. Once there, they dug holes in the sand and hid their stolen treasure. Suddenly, just as they thought their secret was safe, a vessel appeared. One pirate hid a chest in a cave around the western promontory. The pirates hoisted their sails and fled whilst the newcomers dug up a few of the treasure chests and took them back to Tortola. Later, a squadron of ships with a contingent of British marines anchored in that same beach, Privateer Bay. Their job was to recover the remaining stolen treasure and return it to the Spaniards. British honour was at stake; after all, Britain and Spain are not at war — yet! 

When Robert Louis Stevenson heard of Dead Chest Cay, he scanned maps, researched pirate history and discovered the tale of the stolen Spanish booty. It is not hard to imagine how, even some 135 years after the escapade, Treasure Island came to be. Today you can snorkel the caves, hike to Spyglass Hill or dig for treasure on the beach.

The Wreck of the Rhone
The BVI can accurately boast the best scuba diving adventure in the Caribbean, the RMS Rhone; but the actual events leading up to the disaster are the stuff Hollywood is made of. Imagine two 19th-century ships tied up alongside each other off Peter Island’s north shore. It was October 1867 and the previously fine weather started to thicken, the barometer dropped and the clouds darkened. Then, just moments later, a sudden blast of wind from the north reminded the captains that they were on a lee shore and being pushed towards land. Captain Wooley of the Rhone ordered his crew to prepare for sea, where he would ride out the early winter norther. The captain of the Conway would steam to Tortola and shelter under its lee. As the storm worsened, the ship steamed as fast as possible for open water, hoping to outrun the storm. Several screaming passengers became delirious and had to be locked in their cabins. Some were lashed into their bunks. As the eye wall of the hurricane passed the powerful steamer, the winds shifted abruptly and drove the ship inexorably towards the lee shore of Salt Island by winds of 130 miles per hour. The second anchor failed to save her, and she sank in a hissing maelstrom of steam and spume. One hundred twentyfour souls lost their lives.

Today schools of colourful fish swim through the wreckage, and waving sea fans evoke a ghostly past. The historic propeller appears gigantic in about 30 feet of water.

The wreck of the Rhone was chosen as the main set for the Hollywood blockbuster, The Deep. On a calm day, snorkellers can enjoy this site and can often accompany scuba divers on their excursion boats.

Marina Cay
In the 1930s, an adventurous couple from the United States fell in love with a small, deserted cay just off the sleepy east end of Tortola. That little island was Marina Cay, surrounded by a fringing reef encapsulating a crystal-clear turquoise lagoon, which before the days of tourism was teeming with fish and lobster. They decided to build a small house on the summit and settle down to a life of idyllic ease. Whilst dreams and reality sometimes differ, Robb and Rodie White managed to complete their painstaking project, and the one-room concrete house is little changed to this day. According to legend, Robb would ask his wife what she would like for dinner and then proceed to dive up her menu request: snapper, grouper, lobster, etc. Later he wrote a book, Our Virgin Island, a romantic adventure story that caught the eye of a Hollywood film producer. The resulting film, Virgin Island, with Sidney Poitier and John Cassavetes, is trite by today’s standards but still evokes a Robinson Crusoe lifestyle, the envy of many.

Today, an attractive little sandy beach provides shade tikis, and a free ferry from Trellis Bay brings in lunch and dinner guests. The little house on the summit is now a venue for happy hour entertainment. There is also good snorkelling here.

Water Fun
The Baths, Virgin Gorda: The BVI’s natural wonder, The Baths, is an awe-inspiring artist’s dream. A long-ago upheaval combined with subsequent erosion has resulted in giant boulders being strewn haphazardly along a stretch of sandy coast on Virgin Gorda’s southwest shore. The trails through, over and under these granite monoliths will take you by magnificent natural sculptures formed by erosion from wind, waves and weather.

There’s wonderful snorkelling here, great hiking and pool bathing. For thrill seekers, there’s rock jumping — just mind the depth!

North Sound, Virgin Gorda: This body of water, surrounded by protective islands, is home to the Bitter End Yacht Club, the Caribbean’s finest watersports resort. Whilst sitting on a deck chair at the water’s edge, you may well see a Hobie Cat regatta, a windsurfing slalom exhibition and kiteboarders carving a wake — all at the same time. For something more relaxing, check out the Nautical Museum and aquarium at Saba Rock. When it’s happy hour, head over to Leverick Bay for a fun time.

Anegada: Anegada is unique to the BVI; it’s the only coral island in the archipelago and rises to a meagre 28 feet above sea level. Bordered on two sides by miles of coral reef (the third-largest continuous coral reef in the world), it hosts some 350 known shipwrecks. In days of yore the motley group of inhabitants, composed of shipwrecked pirates, escaped slaves and assorted boat bums, would live off the spoils of shipwrecks. This motley crew would light up false lights, hoping to lead ships to their doom on Anegada’s reefs — a scurvy lot indeed.

Today, excursion boats take visitors to Anegada for unparalleled snorkelling on the island’s north shore. Lobster or other seafood lunches and dinners are popular.

Jost Van Dyke: Jost, as it is popularly called, is often described as the BVI’s premier party island. It was Foxy’s Tamarind Bar in Great Harbour that first started the ball rolling back in 1970.

The weekend and holiday parties soon became legendary amongst yachtsmen, and now the “Old Year’s Night” extravaganza has been described as one of the top three New Year’s celebrations in the world. In adjacent White Bay, a string of popular beach bars and eateries line the beach. A trampoline doughnut provides great fun for kids, and guided ATV tours of the island offer thrilling up- and downhill rides and unsurpassed views. Off the eastern end of Jost lie two picture-perfect cays, Sandy Cay and Sandy Spit, with good snorkelling. The nearby Bubbly Pool, at the end of a short but fascinating walk, will have visitors screaming with delight in north swell weather. The sea, forced into the pool through a fissure in the rocks, creates a natural, saltwater Jacuzzi sometimes with accompanying showers of spray.

There can be no doubt that the BVI has an unrivalled array of natural and man-made attractions — all located in one of the most beautiful, tropical archipelagos in the world. One may very well ask the question: Could Disney have done it better?

Tortola’s top five

1. Visit the Callwood Rum Distillery on Cane Garden Bay — a traditional rum factory still in operation.
2. Find your own quiet piece of beach at Smuggler's Cove.
3. Explore history on a museum trek. There's more than five to choose from.
4. Hike the trails at Sage Mountain National Park. The views are amazing.
5. Relax in the J.R. O'Neal Botanic Gardens after a morning of shopping in town.

Virgin Gorda’s top five

1. Explore The Baths, on the beach and underwater.
2. Take a stroll to Gorda Peak and enjoy the view.
3. Swim in the crystal-clear waters of Savannah Bay.
4. Take a day sail to one of the outlying islands.
5. Explore North Sound and visit some of the resorts.

Jost Van Dyke’s top five

1. Play in the frothy sea foam at the Bubbly Pool.
2. Have a drink at the legendary Foxy's Tamarind Bar.
3. Spend an afternoon exploring uninhabited Sandy Cay.
4. Mingle with the party crowd at White Bay on a holiday weekend.
5. Walk the beach at Great Harbour and sample the "island scene."

Anegada’s top five

1. Stroll on your own private beach — for miles!
2. Feast on the island specialty: lobster and local fish.
3. Try your hand at fly-fishing on the flats.
4. Explore the Settlement for a bit of island history.
5. Snorkel or swim in the crystal-clear waters on the north shore.

Check out our beaches and sightseeing suggestions for British Virgin Islands, island-by-island using the links above.

To get to the BVI's call American Airlines at 1-800-433-7300, book your trip on aa.com, or for travel information, visit www.EagleLatitudes.com.

Book your stay direct and save - using our BVI hotel guide.